Woven structures with one warp and one weft set and 3 effects.

Damask structures are simple structures, woven with one warp set and one weft set.
The classical damask structure has 2 effects, a satin 5-warp effect in the ground weave and a weft satin 5 for the pattern weave. The oldest damasks were woven in twill 4, warp and weft effect. Weavers are not obliged to weave only damask when the loom is set up with one warp and one weft.
So, why not try something else?

Once in a weaver’s life you must try  a Lam –pasette (atlas satin).
The ground is in a satin 8 or more (10 for example) and the pattern in a twill weft effect. The twill has to be in alignment with the satin so that this binding has to fit well in the other bindings.

Figure 1

On the draw loom a set up with a warp step of: 4 threads. The weft set is: 2 wefts and a multiple of the 2 wefts. The letter N in the tie-up  = warp down.

Figure 2

Back to the fabrics woven with 3 effects on a draw loom.
When the jacquard looms started working better and better, around 1850/1860 and later, damask with several effects were made. For example, like the ground in a warp satin, parts of the pattern in a weft satin and other parts of the pattern in warp or weft twills or other bindings.
Also in the middle of the 18th C. there were more possibilities then only 2 effects in fabrics woven with one warp and one weft set.
This fabric for example.: Het “Sooytje”-  has a simple weave structure woven with 3 effects.
The binding: satin 8, panama 2/2,  the now- a - days hopsack,  and the glimmering effect of the weft floats are lying on the warp floats. Take care, that by a low warp density that the weft does not float too much.

Fig. 3 By courtesy: Frans Hals Museum Haarlem NL ©

By designing the weave gamut, you can easily see what the warp is doing with the weft on the draw loom .

Figure 4

-The fabric is woven with one warp set and one weft set.!-The warp step in the draw harness has to have 2 threads. If not the hopsack 2/2 (red in the design), and the glimmering effect (blue in the design) can- not be created. Take care that the hopsack is well integrated in the satin and not beneath the satin.

Figure 5

In the next article I will treat real damask with several effects (3) with the bindings: tabby, hopsack and satin 8!  The montage of the draw loom will be the same as shows here. If your draw loom has not enough draw buttons/ samples by making this sheep (minimum 100 grids with a warp step of  2 threads. ) inspire you by the geometric elements visible on the original sample. (Fig. 3)
Enjoy this new and other discover another woven world.

Figure 6

The 3-effect “damask” is for a fowling article. Keep the same set-up of the loom, a warp step of 2 threads and a threading on 8 shafts for the satin 8.

Figure 7: The sheep as woven by Laura D. satin 8 in the warp and weft effect